Bodega is the name for a small shop here. They are tucked into homes like spider webs
hiding in nooks and crannies. To an
outsider, there don’t seem to be any businesses around, just houses made of
brick, cement or adobe often times with metal bars over the doors and
windows. To someone from the barrio though, bodegas are easy to spot. It’s
a great place to pick up something you forgot to buy in the market and a great
way to help out neighbors and give the local economy a boost. Often times, people turn the front part of
their home into a shop and sell to anyone who taps on the window or door or
calls out “Seño” (leaving off the final part of Señor or Señora for
whoever might be selling).
There’s a bodega that I pass
by every day that fascinates me. Unlike
nearly all the rest, it isn’t a small converted room at the front of a home, it
is a large portion of the home, but the space is used in an absurd manner. A large wooden door opens up to light the dim
cement room, which has a ceiling reaching two stories. Crates of old beer bottles sit off to one
side, while a long row of shelves with matches, eggs, oil, sugar, toilet paper,
rice, pens and other odds and ends spans the length of the 5 meter by 20+ meter
room. Towards the back of the room are
some stairs that lead up to a loft, upon which all can see Don Prado and his
wife’s bed and other personal items stacked along the wall. I rarely shop there because I feel
uncomfortable entering and calling out to the hard-of-hearing Don Prado and
fearing that he will crawl out of his bed after a siesta and be startled by my
presence.
The strangest thing isn’t
that they’re so poor that they have to live inside their shop, but that they
rent many (perhaps 50) tiny, dilapidating rooms from other parts of their house
to other people and families living in poverty and all (including he and his
wife) share the bathroom or two that exist there but don’t even have a toilet,
but rather a hole in the floor leading to the sewage pipes! It’s a mystery why they choose to live in
such poor conditions when they could easily sleep in a different room or hang a
curtain between their room and the bodega.
Some things simply cannot be understood.
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