Tuesday, December 23, 2014

As the old year winds down...

As 2014 draws to an end, we have the opportunity to reflect on it and know that we're heading into the new year having had a prosperous year.





Let's rewind.  We now have a week to enjoy ourselves!  I just finished my English pedogogy exams a week ago and Igor achieved high marks on his exam to earn himself a paid residency here in Chiclayo!  Now we both have an income :)

We got to celebrate time with family and friends in July in the weeks surrounding our wedding.

And, while they weren't our favourite things we learned somethings during the first half of the year... me primarily learning terminology for cowboy clothes and gear while Igor learned about statistics and other fun things like citing sources for his thesis.



Friday, December 12, 2014

A Blessing in Disguise

   It was in the form of a large rectangular, chewed up piece of foam.  Klaus, my sister-in-law's rambunctious beagle, got to the mattress and tore a good chunk of it up, so Igor’s mom decided to throw it out on the sidewalk.  I looked out our apartment window and wished that the ugly thing could at least have been thrown next to the Pan-American Highway where the garbage is collected.  But one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.  It was someone else’s blessing. 
   It didn’t take long for an elderly man with kinky white hair, who has lost his mind and often sleeps in the grass across from our place in the median of the Pan-American Highway, to snatch the mattress.  We hoped he could at least get some use out of it.  But when we didn’t see him with the mattress in the median the following nights, we began to wonder what had become of him and the mattress. 
   A week or two ago, while taking a walk at a nearby park, we happened to be curious and look over the high cement walls of a deep, empty fountain.  There we saw a small portion (perhaps a 3rd of the mattress) inside.  We asked ourselves, if the man could possibly sleep on that.  A few days later we saw him wandering in the park saying nonsense.  At the beginning of this week, we peered into the empty fountain once more and discovered that the whole mattress is not pushed together in a position out of the wind. 

   With a smile on our faces we turned to each other and said at the same time, “He may be crazy, but I’m sure glad he’s found a better place to sleep.  We’d better go so no one else discovers his bed.”  We didn’t see the beauty in that chewed up mattress that lay on the sidewalk, but we’re thrilled that someone else did.  

Sunday, November 30, 2014

On the other side of the street

   In a country that doesn’t have the infrastructure or ideas that many Americans have in regards to care for the elderly or mentally unstable, it’s a common sight to come across loco men and women in the streets.  Living next to the Pan-American Highway heightens our opportunities for such occurrences, as does working in the city center. 
   There are those who fade into the background, that are seen occasionally, but don’t seem to attract everyone’s attention and then there are those who are not forgotten.  We see a man, who most people don’t notice, because he likes to sleep in the grass in the median of the highway right across from our house.  There is the “Crazy Sack Lady” who can often be found in the business district with her overgrown fingernails and toenails and plastic sacks on her head, piled next to her and protruding from her ragged clothing.  Finally, you must meet “Loco Chete,” a legend in Chiclayo.  On two different occasions, in an English class, when students were to describe other people, I asked them to describe him and everyone in the classes new him.  He is a non-aggressive, generally cheerful, alcoholic who is said to have lost his mind after seeing his father burned alive at the age of 12.  Loco Chete covers the entire city on foot, carrying a few bags, usually some beer and muttering, laughing or hollering nearly unintelligibly (at least for me) in a good natured way.  The people love him.  They give him a little bit of money, they offer him food, cut his hair for him and care for the man, lost in time but not in space.  He may not have any sense of who others are or where/what he should do at any particular time but he can tell a person about every district in the city and where he has been or is headed. 

   We get caught up in our own lives and know what’s going on in our own home and sometimes what is going on in our neighbors.  We see those on the other side of the street but often do not know their stories and then the further one goes from home, the more like a dream their lives seem.
Loco Chete across the highway from our house

Experiments in the kitchen this week

Peanut butter!  The third time was a charm!  
Over the past month, I’d tried twice earlier to make it, as it appeared to be easy to do according to reviews I’d read.  Well, the first time, it turned into a crushed peanut mess and never got creamy.  The second go got a little bit burnt and dehydrated my lips when I tried to eat it.  
Today’s peanut butter: perfect! 

garlic rice, a lima bean veggie salad, 
topped with a trout fillet seasoned with turmeric powder and pepper


pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving J

Pesas

Pesas (or ‘weights’) is a word that Igor loves.  Lifting weights is one of this famous pastimes.  He lifts for fun, to relieve stress and to stay in shape.  I prefer running.  To be fair, he accompanied me running along the Pan-American Highway a few times, so to hold up my end of the deal, we lift together occasionally.  


Monday, November 24, 2014

A busy, busy month

With warming temperatures, less rain, more sunlight, and American Thanksgiving just around the corner, this has been a busy, very busy, month. 

Virtual classrooms
   The university language center that I work at signed an agreement with a virtual education company and looks forward to offering language classes via computers so that students can study from home.  It’s an interesting concept, because, unlike many online classes, students must enter at a specific time and interact with their classmates.  There is also a teacher present giving instructions facilitating discussions.
   For those of you who know me, I’m not the most tech savvy person in the world.  I spent a week being trained (without compensation) to teach these courses in the future, but secretly I hope to not have to do so.  I enjoy physically interacting with others and it’s really challenging to facilitate when you cannot see people’s facial expressions.  That course along with my work really kept me busy. 

Cooking experiments
   I've tried a few things this month.  Peanut butter seems like it should be really easy to make but both batches have turned out, well, not quite as creamy as we'd like.  Third time's a charm.  Maybe next week.
   I bought a pumpkin to try to make a pumpkin pie in honor of Thanksgiving.  I have yet to find the time to attempt it.  

Work
   My schedule has been filled with several classes at the university in the early morning and late afternoon/evening classes as well as sporadic private lessons throughout the day.  Conversation is my preferred class, because it allows for creativity.  The majority of my students look forward to the class and enjoy it.  This month has had smatterings of great debates, conversations about current events, life events, habits and childhood memories.  Listening to students’ memories was fun, hearing about the games they played or where they hid or what foods they hated and being able to draw the connections between childhood in Peru versus the United States. 

Finished at last
   Last week, Igor had final written exams, hands-on exams and presentations.  After successfully presenting a poster of his thesis and passing all the exams a very happy and tired Igor came home to catch up on sleep.  All done with the university.  Just preparing to do his residency.



Studies
   Now we both have the next few weeks to study and prepare for exams—Igor for admissions exams for residency (the 12th and 14th of December) and me for internationally recognized English Teaching Knowledge exams (the 15th and 16th of December).    

Thursday, October 30, 2014

the garden

   We enjoy Igor's dad's garden.  We can stick out heads out the window and smell the plants and see the different colors of leaves and flowers.  The song of little birds brightens our days.


The sound of war

   A humming sound is heard in the distance.  It increases to a deafening roar.  The windows rattle.  A few seconds later, the noise dies down and a war plane can be seen buzzing off to the south of our home and looping back around for another take.  I look out the window to see a plane that just took off leave a trail of air pollution behind it.
   We live near one of Peru's two airforce bases where fighter planes do test runs, and the country's first line of defense.  Normally, I'm unaware of the racket that they make, as I am working elsewhere, but a few days this week, I have been home during the later portion of the morning, when all the windows begin to rattle and the roar of the engines permeates the air.  But it's only a few minutes of my day.  What horrible noises people in war torn countries must endure, besides for all the other hardships they must face!


Sunday, October 26, 2014

You are what you eat

It is said that you are what you eat.  Here in Peru, they say, "Life is in the food/eating" depending upon how you wish to translate the phrase.  Well, I'm not sure what that says about Igor, but here's what the fridge looks like when he stocks it:

(Not all can be seen or is worth mentioning but let's just say there are 24 eggs, 
18 bananas, 7 tomatoes, strawberry jelly, two litres of purple corn juice, 
several packets of algarrboina. 2.25 pounds of cheese, 3 carrots, 
some spinach, a litre of milk, 17 large purple olives and half a pound of shredded coconut.)  

This is what I found after he called to me from the kitchen, "I know you're not going to be happy with me, but I think it looks great!"  "What?" I asked myself.  Then I saw what he meant.  "If you eat all that, it's fine with me," I replied.  To which he responded, "Of course.  It isn't that much.  Besides life's in the food." 

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Her Words

     Today, I got the kind of three paragraph essay that every ESL teacher would love to get from a student nearing the end of her first year of English studies.  A well-thought-out paper, with several sentences and where her voice really came through.  After reading a story about a beggar, this week and brainstorming about situations that lend themselves to that lifestyle or situation, I asked the students to use the remaining 40 minutes of class to write their opinion about  beggars in Chiclayo.  While some papers were disappointing, in fact so much so that I had to ask students three times to redo portions (just like little kids who rush through their assignments quickly just to go play at recess) and they still didn't do a very nice or thorough job, this paper was excellent.  Below is her paper with only a few minor spelling and punctuation corrections.  The rest I will leave as it was written:

     When you go walking in Chiclayo, you probably see a beggar in the street many times.  I don't think that the beggars are dangerous; not all the beggars.  Some people need mone, but I ask myself, "Why don't they get a job?"  Well, some beggars are old or sick, but others are young and strong.  Whatever.  Maybe someday the number of beggars will decrease and they won't sleep on the streets or die in poor conditions.
     I'm generous if I have money.  I feel sorry for these people, especially for the children and elderly people.  When I have money, I give money.  But if I have food, I give food.  I think that food is important and this way you can know the truth.  Some "beggars" don't take the food.  They want money, and that is not cool.
     I remember when I gave food to a child.  He was very small and thin.  His clothes were very dirty and torn.  He took the food, smiled and said, "Thanks."  To me, I mean the expression on his face, this was the truest thing.


What Igor said...

     It's been a rather relaxed day, as some of my English lessons were canceled as were two of Igor's 3 classes :)
     As we were going about cleaning up after lunch, Igor was washing the dishes and I was washing the table, counters and sweeping the floor, when I saw a pile of light brown powder on the floor next to our couch.  "What's this?" I called across the dining room and through the open doorway to Igor.        "What?" he asked peeking around the corner.
   "This!" I replied, pointing to small pile, with a sneaking suspicion that he had spilled a spoonful of barley powder, but then again, the powder was in an absurd place.  His eyes growing wider by the second, he came over to exam the pile with me and we determined that there must have been some sort of destructive wood-eating insect that got into the leg of the couch.  While I plotted ways to kill the critter, Igor returned to his dishes, vexed and grumbling against it.
     "What a horrible, ugly insect!" he exclaimed, while I muttered that we hadn't actually seen it and wondered how he could be certain that the vandal was an ugly insect.  Then he continued, "It is a nervous creature--eating and eating and eating."
     Then with the sound of water falling from the faucet, I poured some cleaning detergent into the hole finished sweeping and went to correct some papers.  

Friday, October 17, 2014

My Secret Collection

     If you've never lived in Peru, you probably can't imagine how valuable coins printed with the numbers 10 cents, 20 cents, 50 cents or a Nuevo Sol (which is about 35 cents of the US $) are.  A cough drop, band aid, a lime, or sheet of computer paper can be purchased for 10 cents.  20 cents can get you two tea bags, a good-sized handful of fresh basil or a carrot and fifty cents can buy four bread rolls (my breakfast + half of Igor's).  With a sol, I can take a Combi to the centre of Chiclayo to go to work.   
     Although I hate to admit it, it's more my nature to hoard things than to keep secrets, I find myself doing both of those things here.  I stash coins away in a secret place as they always seem to be in demand but in short supply.
     For instance, when taking public transportation or making a small purchase, if I only have a 10 or 20 soles bill to hand over, often times the cashier or money collector will not be able to give me change and will be horrified by my attempt to pay with such a large amount of money!  Forget using bills of 50 or 100 soles for nearly anything.  In order to minimize such stressful and sometimes embarrassing situations, I try to get change whenever possible and dole it out as little as possible.
     The other day, Igor only had a 20 soles bill and needed change, so asked me if I could spare a few coins.  I (inwardly a bit grudgingly) went to my secret stash to share and Igor appeared behind me.  With eyes wide open and much excitement, he said, "Wow!  You have a lot of coins."  We don't need to try to get change for some time.  We can use this all up first!"  I disagreed.  My stash dwindled but has found a new home.  It's impossible to live peacefully here and go about one's daily tasks without small (and exact) change.

Art

We both like paintings--me probably more than Igor--and are pleased to have a brighter touch to our dining room.  I love the bright display of colors in traditional Peruvian artwork whether it be weaving, painting or embroidery.  Pictures often portray cultural relics and symbols as well as women in traditional garb working or harvesting in rural settings.  A local artist's handiwork it now proudly displayed in our home :)




Thursday, October 9, 2014

Just a brief encounter

     For just over two hours, I was able to see some women I hadn’t seen for quite some time.  Through a lot of challenges and hard work on their part and on my friend Sarah’s and mine, they wormed their way right into my heart.
     Most Fridays I find myself in a plain, drab classroom teaching English with a number of students who look like they’d rather be anyplace else but there.  There’s always one or two that have that glimmer in their eyes, helping console me that I might now be wasting my efforts and time completely. 
     I was thrilled to have last Friday off, and jumped at the invitation by friends from Centro Esperanza to accompany them to a closing presentation in the impoverished, outer-lying city district of San Borja.  As I alit from the flimsy, yellow, Tico taxi, I was greeted with smiles, kisses and hugs.  Cheerful chatter filled the air as the women and I caught up on one another’s lives, as we rushed around trying to get the final touches taken care of like hanging a sheet over a window, carrying plastic stools to the right home, and taping paper with masking tape to the walk to make it white for a PowerPoint presentation.  The cord for the projector was missing from its bag, but people ran to their homes to look and about five minutes later, a young girl appeared with just the cable that we needed. 
     My heart swelled with pride as the women presented the project they’d been involved in over the past few months raising ducks and guinea pigs.  Both animals reproduce quickly and can be sold for a profit to restaurants or in the markets and can therefore increase a woman’s power and status in her household as she becomes a financial contributor.  Women, who had sat on rocks in the dirt with Sarah and me a year and a half ago, too shy and beaten down to share their say more than a simple greeting to one another or us, let alone give their opinions or venture to dream, stood with timid grins before an audience of about 40 people and gave their testimonies of their experiences raising small animals.  
     I six year old child slipped through the door.  “Are you Señorita Abril?” she asked me as she scooted onto my lap.  “I am,” I replied with a smile.  Her face reflected mine, she giggled and then snuggled up against me. 
     With the end of the presentation and speeches, came the traditional lunch and pictures galore.  Everyone wanted their picture taken and we happily obliged.  The women, having heard that I might go, thoughtfully prepared sandwiches for Sarah and me without meat.  How they even seemed to remember and think of the smallest details where resources are scarce and work is great, is beyond me, but I was touched.  
     As evening drew near, we kissed good-bye, stepped out into the dirt street, let the coastal wind chill our skin, and made our way through the village to a paved road where we went our separate ways boarding Combis and returning to our normal lives taking a little more of San Borja with us and leaving a little more of ourselves behind.  

At that moment, I should have left

     We were in the mall in Chiclayo for the evening, relaxing and contemplating which electric kettle, we wanted to invest in.  We made our purchase then passes by a store with exercise equipment.  Igor got sucked in and of course went along.  At ten minutes to eight, we were approached by an employee warning us that there would be an earthquake drill at eight o’clock. 
     “Let’s go,” I pleaded with Igor.  “Okay, just one moment,” he replied.  One moment, changed to several minutes and I continued to plead.  Then at 7:59, he decided that maybe I was right and we should leave, but it was too late.  We should have left when we were warned.  Just before we got to the stairs, we heard the alarm sound.  We went to the first floor and outdoors, where we were trapped inside the barred gates for the following 20 minutes with thousands of other people wishing the drill would end and we could just go home. 
     What did I learn?  1. Looking at weight machines on sale is a very hard place to drag Igor away from.    2. Don’t annoy security guards by taking selfies during the drill (that was a second-hand experience).    3.  Leave immediately when warned about an earthquake drill.    

Sunday, October 5, 2014

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Hands

   With his hands held up before him in a display of innocence, the mayor of Chiclayo led his campaign for reelection this coming Sunday under the slogan, "These are hands of the people."  His political party is known as the Clean Hands Regional Movement.  And now, let the news begin...
   With just a few days until elections, the mayor (still uncaptured) and 27 people who were close to him in his political positions have been captured by the police and imprisoned.  The equivalent of more than 2 million dollars (in bills of Nuevos Soles) were encountered in his house, as well as much American money, while there simply wasn't money to pay the honest government employees.  Narcotrafficking, a big problem in this coastal city, is rumored to have funded his campaign.  He was the front runner, and his name will remain on the ballot.  We're left to wonder what will happen and who people will vote for on Sunday.
   So, there you have it: News From Chiclayo about officials with "Clean Hands."  

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

A Taste of Nebraska

A dream complete:  make granola in Peru
....Now we just need to buy some milk!

Taking a step away from the custom of rice (twice) every day here on the coast, we've been making pizza, parseley potatoes, pot pie, and now finally granola!  We (well, maybe more honestly, I ) hope to make some more non-Peruvian dishes in the coming days as well.  It is a great improvement to my week to have three days without rice.  Igor gives pizza three thumbs up, as well as granola; however, he isn't sold on potatoes as a substitution for rice yet.  


Sunday, September 28, 2014

Not again!

     Sunday, October 5th is Election Day in Peru.  Here voting is not a right and a privilege, but rather an obligation.  Failure to vote or help with the elections, if selected to be a “member of the table” (selections at random from the population, like jury duty), result in heavy fines, as does failure to display the national flag (in good condition) on 28th-29th July for the Independence Day Celebrations. 
(One of our neighbor's worn Peruvian flag left over from the 28th of July)
     
     The campaigns have been well underway for quite some time and are finally finishing up today.  Candidates (and their political parties) are not allowed to carry out their campaigns in the final week leading up to elections, so they do their best to go out with a bang and show everyone that they’ve got a lot of support to try to encourage others to also vote for them.
     Over the past month, there have been numerous moments in which we have had to wait in traffic as campaign floats go by and think to ourselves, “Not again!”  We’ve also listened to many vehicles blaring music or propaganda over loud speakers or a megaphone and had those same thoughts.  This morning, just before heading out to buy our weekly assortment of groceries at the market, we were greeted by literally hundreds of vehicles (small mototaxis, large buses, Combis, and cars) all full of passengers waving orange balloons, displaying orange banners and a photo of the candidate they support, and blaring propaganda clogging the streets around our house as they went by in a fifteen minute long procession!  We set out on foot towards Mercado Z and encountered another large parade with the waving candidate towards the front, a band, and many cars, but this time displaying the color green.  We’ve continued to hear propaganda throughout the day, but many tonight when we go to bed, our wish, “Not again!” will be answered. 



Random glances at our lives here:

We have three plants in our bedroom that have all bloomed in the last month J
(Spider Plant, Violet, Geranium)
Additionally we have numerous cacti growing outside on the stairs to our roof.



We love fruit.  Here are two of our three fruit dishes for the week.
(They include 3 different types of bananas, tuna, peaches, 3 types of apples, 
oranges, mandarins, granadillas, passion fruit, papaya and pineapple.

 The view from our roof:
 (Note: Each home has its own water tank on top.)
 The broken bottles our neighbor has cemented onto the top of his wall to deter intruders.
There's a great contrast of modernized buildings and delapidated ones.   
Here's a view of the famous Pan-American Highway.  We cross it daily.
(There's a red mototaxi in the background heading north).

I’m constantly encountering signs or labels that baffle me.  My favorite from the week:
On this bottle of Dukto (a product used to help clear obstructed drains/pipes), the warning says: “Avoid direct contact with skin, eyes, bodily fluids and clothes.  In the event that direct contact occurs, drink an abundance of milk to induce vomiting.  Then seek medical attention.”

But that’s not my real name

     At the sound of “Miss” (sounding more like meese) or “Teacher”, I turn, glancing in the direction I believe the voice came from.  It may be in the language center, on one of the city’s main streets or in a more residential neighborhood, but more than likely someone is trying to get my attention.  Between last year and this year, I’ve had contact with over 1000 students from the Chiclayo area as well as numerous teachers and parents of students.  I don’t remember many of their names, but I often recognize their faces.  Just the other day, walking to catch a Combi home, I turned and my eyes met those of a curly skinny, haired, teenage girl.  She excitedly began to babble about her experiences at the university, La Pedro (where I worked last year as part of my Fulbright ETA Fellowship), about how she’s now in her 3rd semester of English language studies and how she hasn’t seen me there for some times.  Well, she’s correct; I haven’t been there since the end of December.  She asked me if I remembered her, and I was forced to confess that I’d forgotten her name.  She smiled and went on gabbing, and I considered that she likely didn’t know my name either.  After all, “Teacher” isn’t my real name. 
     Having a name like Aprill is great sometimes.  It’s normal in English with a slightly unique spelling.  It’s easily translated when I travel, but then that can also cause challenges.  Most of the people I meet, can’t seem to say “Aprill” but rather “Apo” or something along that strain.  So, it’s usually easier to introduce myself to new people as “Abril” (a name that while not common in Spanish, does exist).  There’s no problem until I write my name on something, and I suddenly hear someone exclaim, “But you’ve deceived me!  You told me your name was “Abril” but it’s “Ah-prij.”  Then I have some explaining to do. 
     When it comes to filling out official paperwork like documents for my foreigner’s card, changing documents with which my bank accounts are registered and the like, I don’t have two last names like Peruvians do.  I fill out the forms, leaving the part reading “maternal last name” blank and hand them over.  From the other side of the desk or counter, I receive a quizzical look and then hear, “And your other last name.”  I then launch into the all too familiar explanation that since my nationality is U.S. American, I do not have two last names, which then usually creates some sort of complication.  Some have wanted to add “Hoffman” to my documents, but then that’s not my real name.  If I do decide to apply for Peruvian citizenship in 2 years, then I may have to add that and have a new name, but for now, my entire name consists of 16 letters: six, four, six.  A nice length.  I like it that way.  I may answer to many different names, but only one is the true version.  

A place I pass by every day

     Bodega is the name for a small shop here.  They are tucked into homes like spider webs hiding in nooks and crannies.  To an outsider, there don’t seem to be any businesses around, just houses made of brick, cement or adobe often times with metal bars over the doors and windows.  To someone from the barrio though, bodegas are easy to spot.  It’s a great place to pick up something you forgot to buy in the market and a great way to help out neighbors and give the local economy a boost.  Often times, people turn the front part of their home into a shop and sell to anyone who taps on the window or door or calls out “Seño” (leaving off the final part of Señor or Señora for whoever might be selling). 
     There’s a bodega that I pass by every day that fascinates me.  Unlike nearly all the rest, it isn’t a small converted room at the front of a home, it is a large portion of the home, but the space is used in an absurd manner.  A large wooden door opens up to light the dim cement room, which has a ceiling reaching two stories.  Crates of old beer bottles sit off to one side, while a long row of shelves with matches, eggs, oil, sugar, toilet paper, rice, pens and other odds and ends spans the length of the 5 meter by 20+ meter room.  Towards the back of the room are some stairs that lead up to a loft, upon which all can see Don Prado and his wife’s bed and other personal items stacked along the wall.  I rarely shop there because I feel uncomfortable entering and calling out to the hard-of-hearing Don Prado and fearing that he will crawl out of his bed after a siesta and be startled by my presence.
     The strangest thing isn’t that they’re so poor that they have to live inside their shop, but that they rent many (perhaps 50) tiny, dilapidating rooms from other parts of their house to other people and families living in poverty and all (including he and his wife) share the bathroom or two that exist there but don’t even have a toilet, but rather a hole in the floor leading to the sewage pipes!  It’s a mystery why they choose to live in such poor conditions when they could easily sleep in a different room or hang a curtain between their room and the bodega.  Some things simply cannot be understood.  

Saturday, September 20, 2014

September's Anecdotes

There’s no such thing as “prepared”
   At the beginning of the month, I obtained my foreigner’s ID card, making it possible for me to be legally employed!  Nearly immediately, I received an email detailing a time to teach a mock English (as a foreign language) lesson at Señor de Sipán University.  It was a Tuesday morning.  Wednesday night, I received a text message that I would be teaching two classes the following day: the first to begin at 7:30 am.  Not that we’re ever completely prepared for what life throws at us, but sometimes we’re more prepared than others.  I accepted the job, thought about a few activities (still not knowing what level my students’ English was at nor how many of them there would be), and went to bed.  The next day, I taught students with an extremely low level of English and later got the books.  Of a class of 29, only 6 were there the first day. 

A sound I’d never heard before
One night, I was up later than I wanted to be, preparing classes, helping Igor find his misplaced surgical uniform, finishing cooking our lunch for the following day,  and other such minor but time consuming mundane tasks.  I went to bed around midnight and heard singing outside, the faint sound of a choir.  I soon learned from Igor, a light sleeper, that it is a religious sect whose house of worship is located several blocks away that sings from midnight until 5 am every Saturday and Sunday night.  I’d never noticed, but he assured me, he had (many times).

Then the lights went out
I live in a desert.  It never rains.  Well, never say never.  Ok, so, almost never.  One day last week, we decided to wash the bedspread that had collected the city’s dust for a few months.  Since we didn’t get it done until late afternoon, we decided to hang it on our makeshift clothesline on the roof to dry overnight.  Of course, that night it rained.  It rained so hard that the streets flooded with more than six inches of water in them.  It rained in through the windows, washing some of the icky, smelly fish oil putty we’d put on them to keep the glass from falling out, onto the floor.  It rained in through tiny fissures in cement roof and came pouring through our ceiling where the light fixtures are attached.  It rained and rained.  In the morning there was no electricity.  It didn’t return in the afternoon or evening.  It didn’t come back the following morning either.  After numerous phone calls to an electrical company, after having a neighbor (who’s an electrician) dangerously (and irresponsibly) lay a ladder from the top of our roof across the chasm of nothingness to the lightpole and letting the other end rest on the cables as he inched out to see what was wrong, the company sent a few workers to repair the cable that had been destroyed by too much water.  Finally, we were able to use our computers again to study and prepare work for the university.  Let there be light!

Follow the Rules and We’ll Get along Fine
That’s what I said before the exam, but true to the corrupt, chaotic, relaxed ways of this land, we were soon to have an issue arise.  Cheating is a given and I was already prepared to let little things slide.  It not, I wouldn’t have a job.  Most students, if only to save face or feel less guilty, will hide their cheat sheet or make their eyes return to their own exam when the teacher is near.  For this particular exam, I had two students who seemed to lack a few neurons.  Despite a few very clear verbal warnings (in Spanish, mind you) and my presence they not only used a cheat sheet, looked at others’ tests, but also conversed in low tones about the possible answers.  Not wanting to raise the issue during the exam and distract others, I asked Carlos and Karin to stay after class.  I told them what I’d witnessed and asked their input about what would be a just punishment.  After a few moments of silence, I got the typical, “But other people were copying too!” argument.  That was irrelevant to me.  Without any apology or promise to not do it again, I heard their excuses they left.  “I didn’t know the answers, so I just had to check with someone else,”  and probably one of the most absurd excuses I’ve heard, “It’s not fair Miss.  I’m pregnant, so I had to cheat.”  Some things never cease to amaze me!

Everyone was staring at me
With a three-piece navy blue suit, a pastel pink blouse, black heels, a leather bag, papers in my hand and sunglasses atop my head, I dashed out the door to teach.  First I had class with some young children (ages 4-7) and then class at the university.  I waited impatiently for the menagerie of traffic to pass so I could cross the Pan-American Highway to take public transportation to work.  I hailed a Combi, and wriggled my way through the people and took a seat towards the front, facing all the other passengers, while packed like sardines in a crushed tin box.  Everyone stared.  Perhaps it was because I wriggled my way into a seat at the front rather than thrusting my way past other passengers to the already crowded backseat, to which the cobrador (money collector) had directed me with the infamous phrase Al fondo hay sitio (there’s room in the back).  Or perhaps they stared at me because of the large bag I had full of toys and games for children and books for the university and the roll of papers in my hand and wondered what I was doing there or what was in the bag.  But more than likely, everyone was staring at me for the same reason as every other day: There’s a “blonde” girl in public transportation rather than a taxi.  She pays in coins like everyone else rather than in large bills.  Like many of us, she’s dressed in a suit and headed to work.  Is she really Peruvian?

Monday, August 25, 2014

Ripples

     While I hang clothes, towels, curtains and sheets on the green wires we’ve strung across the roof, I squint in the sun’s glare despite the sunglasses I’m wearing.  I keep my mouth shut and look down so as to avoid eating dust carried by the wind.  I notice the ripples of dust along the cement near my feet.  I think about the ripples of the bean fields at home on windy days, the ripples in the water when skipping stones (something I’ve never been particularly good at) and then I think about the ripple effect of our actions and how positive behaviors create a ripple of hope with positive reactions and in turn more positive actions; yet, negative behaviors do the opposite. 
     Despite having had a few rough days, there have been moments that have brightened my days.  A wise person once said, “Never get tired of doing little things for others. Sometimes, those little things occupy the biggest part of their hearts.” 

     I love it that Doña María, an elderly woman that spends each day watching the traffic pass by as she sits outside her home, always greets me and blesses me when I walk past her corner.  The other day, my mother-in-law brought us a bunch of delicious red grapes from a rural community that she’d visited.  The following morning, Igor’s dad prepared oatmeal for us, so that we would have more time to eat breakfast.  We got a letter from home!  Mail is always appreciated.  A doctor offered Igor a few minutes of his time to give him a few pointers on his thesis.  And today, my friend Sarah showed up with a bouquet of flowers and a pot of violets for me just to visit and catch up.  Those are the beautiful parts of our last few days.  And last but not least, I just found out that my application for residency has been approved!  One more step down :)



Monday, August 11, 2014

What's New?

   Just two weeks ago, I woke up to the sounds of frogs croaking and the fresh scent of living plants carried in through the window by the breeze.  I went to bed in the heat shortly after the sun said goodnight.  Now I go to bed several hours after the sun, wearing long sleeves, with a few layers on the bed.  The window is cracked, but it lets in the drone of cars and the honking of their horns as they race along the Pan-American Highway.   When I look out the window, instead of being greeted by evergreen trees, green grass and cornfields, I see a few small banana trees, paved streets, and brick buildings that show evidence of having been constructed one room or floor at a time. 

   Some things seem so long ago and some things so recent.  At other times I wonder about things that have or haven’t changed.  Home always seems the same, although I know it too, like the people in it, are in constant evolution.  Our home here in Chiclayo has much of the same furniture in it, but we’ve made improvements such as installing warm water in the shower, fixing broken windows, and purchasing a table.  Outside too, the street is now paved and less dust bursts through the seams of the windows.   Some of the streets in the center of the city have also been paved and there seems to be more security. But as I flag down a Combi and am forced to jostle my way to the back and cram myself into a space too small for me to fit, I look out the window and see the same people who live in the streets- the woman who wears plastic sacks, an old man who packs his bags of possessions along and sleeps on the curbs, an elderly woman selling gum, a man playing a recorder waiting for alms in a can, and the money changers near the banks, I am reminded that perhaps not much has really changed.       

Sunday, August 10, 2014

The Chaos of Bureaucracy


   After a wonderful time spent with family and friends, a fun wedding, and and many miles, Igor and I are trying to learn the ropes of the bureaucratic system to receive all the documents we need to legally be in either one of our countries. 
   Last year we visited the small immigration office in Chiclayo for Igor to get his passport.  In January he visited the US Embassy for his visa.
   In Pender we got our marriage license although having a foreigner without residency raised a perplexing issue.  In Denver we found out that colored versions of marriage licenses are the preferred, but with a lot of persistence and some great help from others, one of our papers would do.
   Now back in Peru, we’ve visited the RENIEC, the international police station, the huge immigration office in Lima, the Foreign relations building, banks for payments and many bus stations to get to and from our destinations.  Believe it or not, at the police station I got my teeth examined and checked for tattoos or scars; unfortunately for the man checking my teeth, because of the overnight bus ride and all the rush we’d been through in the morning to make payments and fill out paperwork before the time was up, I hadn’t brushed my teeth.  I’m pretty sure that was the case for a good portion of the foreign applicants.  As for the man who was constantly playing with stray cats that wandered beneath our feet as we waited in the cold outside on broken chairs, there was no doubt he was struggling to figure out how to handle his forms and paperwork.
   For any of you who have been through these processes, you know what it’s like- the headache, the nerves, but with each document that is a success, you feel elated!   It’s back to Lima for an interview with all my documents in hand next week.  Looking forward to a new ID card shortly after that J